Last year in March I wrote:
“Despite the fact that the MARPs Network has been officially launched by the Uganda Aids Commission and the team has been properly appointed to roles within the MARPs network secretariat - they all work for nothing at the moment! The Network’s been commissioned by the UN Population Fund (UNFPA) and others to carry out a public dialogue with people from organisations working on HIV / AIDS prevention work with most at-risk populations throughout Uganda but, as yet, no one has put their hand in their pocket to fund the running costs of the Secretariat. There is currently a bid on the table with a large donor organisation so please keep your fingers crossed.
The team is an inspiration to be working with and all have made me very welcome. They call me "Mzee Ian" - "Mzee" is a Swahili word for 'old wise man'. We've all had a good conversation about the priority areas for my work - all of which will be to work with the team individually and collectively to build the organisation's strength and effectiveness. Right now I'm supporting a process for analysing the significance of the findings that have come out of the public dialogue events. I'm learning so much! It's a privilege.”
For clarity, the MARPs Network intends to promote coordinated leadership in the prevention of HIV infections among Most At-Risk Populations (MARPs) in Uganda through:
(1) Managing knowledge - collecting and sharing information that provides evidence-based best practice guidance on policy, program and project interventions;
(2) Strengthening network member organisations - by securing resources for developing the knowledge and skills and commissioning high quality learning program delivery;
(3) Advocating with and on behalf of MARPs groups for access to universal services, and to ensure that MARPs groups are able to influence the design and delivery of such services;
(4) Coordinating the work that collectively is done by member organizations to further: (1) empowerment of stakeholders; (2) learning from evidence; (3) development of quality services; and (4) achievement of effective partnership working.
Here’s a summary of what followed in my year with the MARPs Network:
March 2010
At the end of the month, Dr Geoffrey Mujisha and Dr Thomas Muyenga, delivered a presentation to a gathering of stakeholders at the UNFPA offices on progress achieved on the Public Dialogue Project. The presentation contained interim findings gathered from participants in 3 of the 4 regions of the Country involved in the Public Dialogue. There was good discussion and the progress was appreciated.
At the conclusion of the meeting it was agreed to meet again after Easter to focus on organisation development issues and the next steps needed to conclude the Public Dialogue Project.
April 2010
We worked hard on both sides of the Easter weekend to prepare a presentation on how we would address organisation development issues and also on a checklist of suggestions for how best to complete the Public Dialogue Project. The re-convened gathering was set for 7 April.
On the morning of 7 April we learned that a “member” had challenged Geoffrey’s authority to call this re-convened meeting – and it was cancelled by the UNFPA who were to be our hosts once again. Personally I was aghast - a room full of people had agreed to meet again on 7 April – including the individual challenging Geoffrey. We had no real clue as to what it was all about. There seemed little point in speculating.
The mood in the team was very low – especially because:
(1) We had no agreement as to how to proceed with the completion of the Public Dialogue Project; and
(2) We were worried as to what effect the challenge might have on our ongoing funding bid.
Secretly I wondered if my placement would end early! But that was before I truly appreciated Geoffrey’s determination and the respect that he clearly enjoys from key stakeholders.
As it happened negotiations continued on the detail of the funding bid and we were hopeful of securing funding for establishing a proper office (at the time we were ‘squatting’ in a spare room at Uganda’s Food Hotel Tourism and Allied Workers Trade Union – free of charge!) together with running costs for up to 9 months.
Way out West
Boosted by the positive funding negotiations we then enjoyed a brilliant team meeting where we resolved to take the initiative on work to complete the Public Dialogue Project. While securing the agreement of stakeholders was crucial to getting the funding from UNFPA to complete the Public Dialogue, there would be nothing to stop us going on a field trip to meet organisations in western Uganda if we could secure alternative funding. A combination of personal well-wishers and VSO (who funded my travel and accommodation and fuel for the car) enabled us to spend the last week of April ‘on the road’ and to become properly inspired by the amazing work being done to support people who are HIV positive (or at real risk of becoming HIV positive) by often very small community and voluntary organisations on tiny amounts of money. We visited 25 organisations and all said they would be very keen to join the Network.
The field trip ended on a high note as a message from the Network’s bank said that the funding for setting up the office and for April and May’s running costs had arrived from Nairobi. Team members were going to get paid for the first time. Smiles all round as we journeyed back to Kampala.
May 2010
The month began sorting and storing the purchases that had been made with the money received from the donor in Nairobi. The money arrived on 29 April and the understanding was that the April disbursement had to be spent by the end of the month!
Contracts were agreed on new premises for the Network Secretariat and a moving date of 4 June agreed.
Later in the month we discovered that our expectations for 9 months funding to cover start-up running costs were too optimistic. We only had secured running costs for two months – April and May. Oh well, back to the fund raising drawing board!
But we resolved to plough on as hard as we could (to support any fundraising) efforts to:
(1) Get the Public Dialogue Project finished
(2) Publish a report of the Public Dialogue findings
(3) Enroll into membership the 100 plus organisations that said they wanted to join the network
(4) Hold the annual assembly
(5) Elect a new Board of Directors from the membership
The expected (and final) running costs payment for the month of May failed to arrive by the end of the month. Team members had to re-arrange their personal finances!
June 2010
We made the office move to our own place in Kamwokya - a cause for rejoicing in the team - a real lift to our spirits - a source of pride in achieving a significant milestone.
At our first team meeting in Kamwokya, we agreed a timetable of priority work covering:
- Completing the Public Dialogue Project and Report
- Developing a business plan
- Developing a fund raising plan and prospectus
The delayed final payment of running costs for May still did not arrive – cause for Team members to further re-arrange their personal finances!
July 2010
At a team meeting to discuss the business plan and fundraising prospects, we agreed that we needed a plan B – for the Network and for ourselves as individuals – we needed to agree a time limit for how long we could go on without securing funding. We agreed - following this very necessary conversation:
(1) For the Network – a time limit of 31st December 2010. If no funding had been secured by then, we would reluctantly place the Network ‘on hold’
(2) For individuals – we should start looking for alternative work and in the absence of any re-imbursement for travel and lunch costs we should stay at home (especially problematical as the May running costs had still not come through from the donor)
Despite all of this I did not detect that team members had lost any of their determination to stay with the struggle to establish the Network.
Dr Thomas Muyunga deservedly secured sponsorship to attend the 2010 International AIDS Conference in Vienna. We were all pleased for Dr Thomas – the real academic in the team – he would contribute wisely and bring back plenty of valuable learning for everyone’s benefit.
Later in the month we agreed what the contents of the business plan should be, we shared out the work and agreed deadlines.
Finally, just before the month’s end May’s running costs arrived enabling debts to be paid and bills to be settled – big sighs of relief all round. Big worries though as to where the next coin would come from!
August 2010
Dr Thomas secured an offer of employed working with the Ministry of Health as a coordinator for a very large and strategically important National AIDS Indicator Survey. We are all pleased for Thomas and wish him well. But the team is shrinking.
The rest of the month is consumed by work on preparing for:
- The final leg of the Public Dialogue Project to be held in Fort Portal in the middle of September; and
- Work on the business plan
At a team meeting to review progress we discussed the problem of holding an annual assembly with (a) no money available to pay for its organisation, and (b) no money available to follow up the assembly with any work to implement the functioning of the Network. We agreed that the annual assembly must be put on hold until core funding is secured.
It’s probably fair to say that during this month we began to envisage, for the first time, a future without the Network and what this might mean for making plans for putting the Network on hold.
September 2010
UNFPA, having decided to go on working with us, provided the money to complete the Public Dialogue Project. We got really busy making plans for the Fort Portal dialogue event – Richard made a 48 hour round trip to check out the venue and practicalities. He returned with a big smile on his face with everything to his liking. He’d also managed to get local government staff in Fort Portal to assist with delegate recruitment. Richard is so good at getting people to help us!
During September our finances and financial systems were audited. Very clean bill of health reported in terms of accounting for every coin, but some challenges reported for improving management systems. Good and constructive meetings with Sam, the Finance and Administrative Officer, follow and he responds by getting everything sorted before the month’s end.
The Fort Portal dialogue event was rewarding – over 30 organisations took part, we gathered high quality data to complete the dialogue. The organisations participating said that they really enjoyed the networking and sharing of experience and expressed a keen desire to join the Network. Tired but happy we returned to Kampala knowing that we can now finish the analysis of the finding and the writing up of the finding and publishing a report.
October 2010
The team shrinks to two. Still no sign of any core funding, and it’s no big surprise when Richard tells us that he’s accepting an offer to go and join Thomas at the Ministry of Health. Soon after, Sam – with a heavy heart – decided that he too needs to look to his own future and after three or four weeks of research he secured a promising career development opportunity with an international accounting and auditing company – PKF – in Kigali, capital of Rwanda.
This just left Geoffrey and “Mzee” Ian in the team. Hopefully not an odd couple!
The two of us had our work cut out in the month to finish off a list of tasks before I depart on a pre-booked holiday with our friends David and Gina from Sheffield who were due to arrive mid November. We needed to finish off the report of the Public Dialogue findings, finish the business plan and develop the funding prospectus. We succeeded and assembled a package that would be delivered to prospective donors at the beginning of November.
At the end of the month The MARPs Network was invited to attend a pre-bidding workshop by the Uganda Civil Society Fund – this is a big pot of money that (mainly) western Government donors shovel loads of cash into for work on HIV/AIDS. The motivation of the western Donors is to avoid giving cash to the Uganda Government who many of the Donors consider to be corrupt. Every so often lumps of this money is put up for Civil Society (not for profit) Organisations to bid for against a specification for achievement of particular outcomes. On this occasion 3 billion Uganda shillings (about $1.3m) was set aside for developing networking/coordination for organisations working in the HIV / AIDS field.
Right up our street you’d think! Not so. For an organisation to bid to the CSF, it has to have a 5 year track record – has to have experience of managing big money etc. The only chance was for us to become part of a bidding consortium. No chance. The Network was a ‘new kid on the block’, Geoffrey doesn’t do voluntary sector politics, he also doesn’t play golf and doesn’t know what schmoozing is all about.
Still. It was an education being in a huge room in a posh hotel with 300 suits eager to bid for a pot of gold. Many Toyota Land Cruisers in the car park! Spending $1.3m on setting up a network from a standing start in 18 months (money to be spent by June 2012) may keep the money out of Uganda Government hands, but value for money? Maybe. But me thinks probably not.
By the end of October we were knackered! But we shared a sense of pride and satisfaction that even if the fundraising failed there would be a good legacy to leave to others who might wish to pick up the Network baton in the future. It’s been a real privilege to work with and really to get to know Geoffrey – this period of intense collaboration built strong bonds!
November 2010
We selected a list of 45 prospective donors – a mixture of Uganda Government Departments, big strategic AIDS development partners (e.g. UNAIDS, UNFPA) International NGOs (e.g. OXFAM, Save the Children, World Vision) and Embassies.
We produced personalized letters using recently developed contact information (Renate had just completed a donor mapping exercise for VSO and was encouraged to share the results with VSO’s partners). 45 packages – produced on to a MARPs Network branded DVD – were hand delivered to 45 addresses around Kampala.
A lovely surprise
Our friends from Sheffield, David and Gina visited the MARPs Office on 17 November. The previous Saturday David had celebrated his 60th birthday in Sheffield. They arranged a whip-round and their friends gave generously for the MARPs Network. Geoffrey was thrilled with the contribution and pledged that he would now be able to keep the office open through January! Geoffrey and I (considerably cheered) agreed to meet next on 1 December.
December 2010
25 replies to our fund raising letters. Most replies were very kind and appreciative of the MARPs Network concept. However no offers of any funding support. Mainly the feedback was that funding was already committed or that their priority was for other areas of work.
Very disappointing. Geoffrey began to alert strategic partners in Kampala that it would be most likely that the Network would have to fold – he explained that there was a limit to how long he could go on without funding.
But big high points in the month:
(1) Hosting a workshop on World AIDS Day for organisations in Kampala providing support to people from Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and Transgender communities. Over 70 people attended the workshop and commended the MARPs Network for being one of a very few ‘safe havens’ in a country ever more frighteningly homophobic.
(2) At the request of UNFPA, facilitating workshops for local government programme and policy makers in the HIV / AIDS field – in Gulu and Kampala – both workshops achieved positive outcomes and the contribution of the Network strongly appreciated.
Geoffrey and I headed off for Christmas with an expectation that we would most probably be spending January closing down the Network.
January 2011
No new replies to greet us on our return to work on 4 January. During the holiday period some thieves had stolen our lovely “MARPs Network” sign from the end of the street. Not a good omen.
Although the funding future for the Network appeared extremely bleak, Geoffrey and I remained positive. Firstly because we knew the Network had achieved and produced a positive legacy and secondly, there would be life after the Network for Geoffrey! As a medical practitioner, Geoffrey could, and most probably, would return to practice medicine on a full time basis. It was good to explore the kinds of opportunities that he could follow up. As well as practicing medicine Geoffrey’s enthusiasm for learning could be planned for. No sense of gloom.
Towards the end of the month, I happened to check the marps.net@gmail.com inbox and noticed that there were 7 unread emails. I contacted Geoffrey and told him “You’ve got mail!”
The reason these emails has escaped his attention was that David and Gina’s donation had been exhausted and there was no money left to replenish the internet dongle. That sorted, he scrutinized the emails. One from the Royal Danish Embassy, dated 12 January (!), said that they were ‘intrigued’ by the Network’s prospectus and would like to meet to discuss it in more detail.
February 2011
Not surprisingly Geoffrey and I spent many an hour speculating about what was meant by the word "intrigued". Would they want to meet us if they were only mildly interested? The days passed slowly. The meeting was scheduled for 11.00 am on Friday 11 February at the Royal Danish Embassy.
On Thursday 10th, Geoffrey and I were having lunch at ‘Hannahs’, our second favourite Uganda food restaurant (after Rwenzori Foods!), when his ‘phone rang. It was Peter from the Royal Danish Embassy – something had cropped up and they’d need to reschedule. Geoffrey looked alarmed and my heart sank. Not to worry. They agreed on 10.00 on Tuesday 15 February. When I saw Geoffrey’s expression I thought he was being told that it was all off, but he was only alarmed because he wanted me to be there with him and that he knew my last day at work was 15 February!
Full of nerves we got to the Embassy at 9.30. I needed to go to the toilet. Eventually we were led to a shaded courtyard in the Embassy where coffee, tea, juice and biscuits were laid out. We were welcomed by Peter, a Ugandan staff member who heads up their HIV / AIDS programme and he was accompanied by Sanne, his boss who heads up the Embassy’s human resource development program.
After small talk and pleasantries had been exchanged, Peter asked Geoffrey to give a background to the importance of the Network. Geoffrey was brilliant - I was in awe of his telling of the Network story. I was also questioned a bit but I can’t now remember exactly what I was asked or what my response was.
After nearly two hours, a very encouraging meeting came to an end with an assurance that Sanne and Peter would have a meeting “in the kitchen” to decide whether they would fund us. When Geoffrey and I left we really felt in no doubt that they were going to fund us. When we were out of sight we did a jig of delight!
On our return from Lamu after the Presidential election, we discovered that the Network had received email confirmation of the Royal Danish Embassy’s agreement to fund the Network for four years!
Wow! What a year!
A consequence of this thrilling finale is that Renate and I are hoping to return to Kampala with VSO, probably in early May, to continue to support Geoffrey in re-establishing the team and building and implementing the Network. We are very pleased.
But first we are concentrating on, and looking forward to the wedding of our son Matthew to Holly in New York just before Easter!
Tuesday, 22 March 2011
Sunday, 27 February 2011
Escape to Lamu
Friday 18 February was the occasion of Uganda's presidential and parliamentary elections. The last time these elections were held in 2006 there was a fair amount of violence and unrest. Even though most analysts reckoned that this year's election would pass peacefully (as indeed they did) VSO wasn't prepared to take any chances with volunteer safety. As a result volunteers were requested to stay at home from Thursday 17 to Tuesday 22 February . . just in case.
The thought of confinement for 6 days did not appeal, so we decided to visit the island of Lamu just of the Kenya coast in the Indian Ocean. Matt and Holly, visited Lamu after staying with us for Christmas and they enjoyed it very much. Here are some images from the trip.
The main square in Lamu - on Sunday night football matches are screened on the wall opposite the island's Fort
The sea bounces off the sea wall at high tide, as this tide was close to the full moon it was particularly high and we thought this guy wasn't going to keep dry - but he did and didn't in fact take the cigarette from his mouth as he moved from boat to boat to dry land!
Renate standing in a beautifully carved door post - typical of most buildings in Lamu
The buildings are constructed close together and at ground level there's some shade walking along the alleyways - many buildings have roof top structures where they can catch the breeze.

a "Lamu Sea Breeze" and an "Apple and Mint Crush" - fruit juices to die for.
The main means of transporting goods and supplies is via the island's donkeys who look slight and gentle. We resisted the opportunities to have a ride and our pictures taken. There's a donkey sanctuary on the island that provides veterinary care and a place to retire. It is run by a charity from Sidmouth in Devon!
Here we are posing in front of the guest bedroom in the Swahili House!
Intricate plasterwork shelves at the Swahili House Museum
The thought of confinement for 6 days did not appeal, so we decided to visit the island of Lamu just of the Kenya coast in the Indian Ocean. Matt and Holly, visited Lamu after staying with us for Christmas and they enjoyed it very much. Here are some images from the trip.









Wednesday, 2 February 2011
Ruby Wedding Celebration on 30 January 2011
On 30th January 1971 Renate and Ian got married in Mochudi, Botswana. Ian was working as a volunteer in Mochudi and Renate who then lived in South Africa (the country of her birth) visited Mochudi for a weekend and a few months later a wedding happened! The photo below shows the young couple with Ian's Best Man, Henderson Thloiwe on the right. On the left of the photo is Ian's "Father" - hired to organise the wedding and make sure everything was done in the proper manner! By the way, Mochudi is the village in Botswana where Mma Precious Ramotswe of the No. 1 Ladies Detective Agency was born.
Fast forward 40 years and the continent is still Africa! Renate and Ian are once again volunteers! This time the venue for the celebration is the Kingfisher Safari Resort on the banks of Lake Victoria right beside where the River Nile begins its journey north to the Mediterranean sea.
Below are the happy couple standing by amazing flowers that neighbours Bob and Baukje have collected to celebrate. Ten good volunteer friends helped to make the celebration special by joining Renate and Ian for the weekend.
Here's Bob and Baukje with Renate and the flowers.
Finlay on the left, and James on the right pouring Cava into glasses so that the 40 years are properly 'toasted' on a gorgeous evening in really beautiful surroundings.
Elizabeth, Renate, Baukje and Wissit (she took this photo!) having walked from the Kingfisher round to above the Source of the Nile, decided to take a boat back.
Below is our good friend Wissit. She came out to Uganda on the 'plane with us a year ago to undertake a two-month placement in Gulu in northern Uganda. She really loved it and is now back to do a year's placement focusing on youth development work, once again in Gulu.
Renate enjoying the morning mist over the Nile at the point where it leaves Lake Victoria.
The weekend in Jinja was a lovely way to celebrate 40 years of marriage. Big thanks to the Good Friends that we have made in Uganda who came with us to make it a memorable occasion - and to all of our other dear Family and Friends who have sent good wishes!








Wednesday, 26 January 2011
Two very recent and random images
Last night Renate was about to put her night dress on when she spotted s creature! Isn't this a splendid beetle!? Probably between the size of the head of a tea spoon and desert spoon. Renate's quite glad that she spotted it before putting her night dress on!
Today is Liberation Day, a public holiday in Uganda celebrating the day 25 years ago when the National Resistance Movement marched into Kampala to begin what's turned out to be an unbroken period of rule by President Museveni. Presidential elections are three weeks away and Uganda waits to see whether M7 (as he's called) can be elected for a 4th term of office.
As it's a public holiday Renate and Ian were mooching around in town and spotted this brilliant knife sharpener. When a customer is spotted he 'hitches' the bike up on a stand and engages a belt linking the pedals to a grinding wheel and "jobs a good 'un!"

As it's a public holiday Renate and Ian were mooching around in town and spotted this brilliant knife sharpener. When a customer is spotted he 'hitches' the bike up on a stand and engages a belt linking the pedals to a grinding wheel and "jobs a good 'un!"

A visit to Kkalwe - a village in Central Uganda
Our friend and fellow VSO volunteer Diane took us to visit Kkalwe - a village in Central Uganda, about an hour's drive north of Kampala. Diane has been to Uganda before this assignment as a volunteer and has developed good friendships with some families in this village and promised to take Renate and Ian to meet them one recent Saturday.
Diane works as a volunteer supporting the development of Midwife training at the International Hospital in Kampala
Diane's daughter Sarah with the children from two of the village families that her mum Diane has become good friends with
This is another Sarah, a close friend to Diane and a supporter of the village school and church
When we arrived we were soon surrounded by a group of village children 'messing about'.
Below are photographs of the children who went with us as we were taken to visit the village school and church - in the church they grabbed the chance to start drumming and dancing for our benefit. They also much enjoyed 'posing' for Ian's camera!







Fetching water from the communal pump is a task that all children in the village have to undertake. This first photograph shows an ingenious contraption that has been made to make the task easier, using the 'sprocket' from a bicycle wheel as the 'wheel' for this water barrow.
This photograph below shows that even small children are supplied with tiny plastic gerry cans so that they can play their part as well.
The village school is committed to doing its best to raise awareness amongst young people about the dangers of contracting HIV / AIDS. Here are some slogans painted on the school walls. The first one warns that 'fornication can lead to catching HIV / AIDS' and the second one encourages people to have compassion for those who do get HIV / AIDS.





Below are photographs of the children who went with us as we were taken to visit the village school and church - in the church they grabbed the chance to start drumming and dancing for our benefit. They also much enjoyed 'posing' for Ian's camera!







Fetching water from the communal pump is a task that all children in the village have to undertake. This first photograph shows an ingenious contraption that has been made to make the task easier, using the 'sprocket' from a bicycle wheel as the 'wheel' for this water barrow.

This photograph below shows that even small children are supplied with tiny plastic gerry cans so that they can play their part as well.

The village school is committed to doing its best to raise awareness amongst young people about the dangers of contracting HIV / AIDS. Here are some slogans painted on the school walls. The first one warns that 'fornication can lead to catching HIV / AIDS' and the second one encourages people to have compassion for those who do get HIV / AIDS.


Sunday, 9 January 2011
Family get together
Renate and Ian enjoyed a brilliant finale to 2010 when Laura and Shola and Matt and Holly made the journey to Kampala to celebrate a family Christmas with a difference - on Safari at Murchison Falls on the River Nile! The photographs shown in this post are just a sample from the 1450 photographs that we managed to take between us!
After Matt and Holly arrived at Entebbe airport on the Saturday before Christmas we all stayed over in this lovely town on the shore of Lake Victoria and next day went to the Botanical Gardens - which as well as brilliant trees and flowering shrubs has a resident population of vervet monkeys
Who like to be fed pop corn - the monkeys store any un-eaten pop corn in their cheeks and then chew it some more when they are feeling a bit peckish
Just the bluest balls you have ever seen - they go this colour during the breeding season and signifies that the little fella is really up for it!
After Entebbe we made the journey east from Kampala to Jinja and the source of the River Nile - here's the group with Joseph who drove our boat from the Kingfisher resort where we stayed - Renate's missing as she took the picture
The Kingfisher resort on Lake Victoria - just a few hundred metres from where the Nile River begins its 4000 mile journey from Lake Victoria to Alexandria in Egypt - the guides at the Source of the Nile say that it takes the water from Lake Victoria 90 days to make the journey to the Med.
Shola doing his best to hide from the camera in the craft shop on the island next to the Source of the Nile
On Christmas Eve we travelled 200 miles from Kampala to Murchison Falls - a magnificent water fall on the River Nile, and in a national park that takes its name from the Falls. This photograph shows the Nile bursting through the narrow gorge at the top of the Falls
From the top of the Falls it took us another hour to drive the 15 miles to the tented camp where we spent Christmas Eve and Christmas Night
Early on Christmas morning - 7.00 am - we took a ferry across the Nile to go on a game drive through the national Park and this giraffe was happy to welcome us
The giraffes in the park were amazing and this little baby was temporarily separated from its mother - we think a reunion took place soon after
A large collective intake of breath as we saw this lioness - there were three or four minibuses full of Christmas Day tourists looking on but she didn't give any of us a moment's attention.
Matt bursting into the background of this portrait of Laura and Shola
After a Christmas Dinner of (for Ian) of beans and chapattis, we hopped onto a boat for a 2 to 3 hour trip up the Nile to the base of the Falls
Soon we were watching a group of elephants making short work of a clutch of bushes and small trees on the River bank
It was the breeding season for crocodiles and this beast is lying on its eggs - it hardly moves while it does this although our guide did caution that if we jumped close to its head we would see a flash of movement!
And finally we made it to within 400 metres of the base of the falls - the 'suds' are (again according to a guide) organic pollution generated by plant and animal waste
And if you are cruising gently down the Nile having been to the base of the Falls what do you drink? Nile Special of course!
The happy team enjoying their starters before tucking into a Christmas Night BBQ organised at the campsite. Note the paper hats - Holly brought six crackers with her from Manchester so that we could capture a bit of the Christmas 'Spirit'.
Not captured on camera by any of us was a hippo that came up from the river, waddled right through the campsite, past the BBQ and camp fire, to munch the grass that was growing around our tents. Laura and Shola were woken at 2.30 on Boxing Day morning by the loud sound of munching and they could see a huge 'hippo shape' through the tent's window. As if this wasn't bad enough some especially 'sensitive' American tourists thought this was the moment to take their 'Facebook Photo' and so flash guns went off - further scaring the living daylights out of Shola and Laura. At every turn we were advised NOT to shine a torch or use flash photography at hippos - they don't like it and can react unpredictably.
Fortunately no unpredictable behaviour was forthcoming and Shola and Laura are still in one piece. You'll not be surprised to hear that Laura exchanged spicy words a bit later on with our north American 'cousins' - about which, more later!
On our way back to Kampala on Boxing Day we had arranged to call in at the ZIWA Rhino Sanctuary. Because of poaching and civil war Uganda's rhino population was wiped out in the 70s and 80s. Now this sanctuary is beginning the task of reintroducing white rhinos from other countries - Kenya and South Africa (and also from the Disney Animal Kingdom) - to safe habitats in Uganda. Once the rhino population in the sanctuary is 'ready' they'll be transported to the Murchison Falls national park. The photograph is of Kawesa, our guide on our walk to see the rhinos - no safety in a big safari bus - a quieter and gentler approach on our two feet. Kawesa knows all the rhinos well and can look at a pile of rhino 'poo' and tell you which one dumped it! He told us that the rhinos have a great sense of smell and they know his 'smell' well - so although the rhinos will 'smell' strangers - it's OK if they are with Kawesa! Hugely reassuring to hear this! We got VERY CLOSE.
This photograph shows some of the north American tourist group that we had the pleasure of spending Christmas with. They gave Kawesa a hard time - they just didn't seem to get it that rhinos are dangerous animals - they wanted to get CLOSER to get that Facebook Photograph. We think Kawesa was badly hassled and if we had been allowed to raise our voices we probably would have. Anyway we congratulated Kawesa on the way he managed them - and commended his approach to his bosses later when we had lunch.
This experience with loutish, over-privileged, arrogant, demanding, white, tourists was a wake-up call for us and a reminder of what Ugandan Citizens sometimes have to put up with when show-casing their Country's natural wonders. If he had encouraged the rhinos to charge us all it would have been understandable!
A mother with 2 year old "Obama" - so called because mum is from America (Disney!) and dad is from Kenya!
This big beast was looking at us for a while and we started checking for trees to climb into - thankfully a few seconds after this photograph was taken he lay down and went back to sleep. Dry mouths as we walked back to have our lunch.
But a good way to end a memorable Christmas Family Get Together!


















Not captured on camera by any of us was a hippo that came up from the river, waddled right through the campsite, past the BBQ and camp fire, to munch the grass that was growing around our tents. Laura and Shola were woken at 2.30 on Boxing Day morning by the loud sound of munching and they could see a huge 'hippo shape' through the tent's window. As if this wasn't bad enough some especially 'sensitive' American tourists thought this was the moment to take their 'Facebook Photo' and so flash guns went off - further scaring the living daylights out of Shola and Laura. At every turn we were advised NOT to shine a torch or use flash photography at hippos - they don't like it and can react unpredictably.
Fortunately no unpredictable behaviour was forthcoming and Shola and Laura are still in one piece. You'll not be surprised to hear that Laura exchanged spicy words a bit later on with our north American 'cousins' - about which, more later!


This experience with loutish, over-privileged, arrogant, demanding, white, tourists was a wake-up call for us and a reminder of what Ugandan Citizens sometimes have to put up with when show-casing their Country's natural wonders. If he had encouraged the rhinos to charge us all it would have been understandable!


But a good way to end a memorable Christmas Family Get Together!
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Ian will be working as a volunteer with VSO and he's set a fund raising target of £1,000 to be reached before setting off. Money raised will go to support VSO's most pressing needs - it won't be used to fund Ian's placement.